Roofing FAQs

It depends on the size of the roof, the covering and what we find underneath. We give a written, fixed price after a free survey, so you know the full cost before anything is ordered.

Most semi-detached houses take around a week once the scaffolding is up, depending on the weather. We give you a timescale with the quote.

No. We need access to the outside of the house and, ideally, the loft at the start. Most customers carry on as normal.

All our work comes with a 10-year guarantee, from small repairs to full re-roofs. It is set out in writing with your quote.

Yes, we are fully insured, and we are happy to show you the certificate at the survey.

Usually not for like-for-like repairs or replacement. Listed buildings, conservation areas and changes to the roof shape can need consent, and we will tell you at the survey if that applies.

On a shared roof line we match the tile profile and colour as closely as possible, and we explain the options before you choose.

Ring us and we will arrange a visit as soon as we can. If water is coming in, we can usually tell you what to do over the phone to limit the damage in the meantime.

Some temporary work can be done in wet weather to stop water getting in. Permanent repairs are done when it is dry enough to do them properly.

Often, yes. If the tiles and timbers are sound, a targeted repair can keep a roof going for years. If they are not, we will show you why and talk you through the options.

Not always. Small repairs can often be done from ladders or a roof ladder. Where it is not safe to do so, we include access in the quote.

For most garages EPDM rubber is the best balance of cost and lifespan. If you will be walking on the roof, GRP fibreglass is usually the better choice.

We strip the old covering so we can check the deck underneath. Covering over a wet or rotten deck traps the problem and shortens the life of the new roof.

A single garage roof is usually one to two days. Larger extensions take longer, and we give you a timescale with the quote.

Often, yes, by building it up as a warm roof. We explain whether that works for your roof at the survey.

Usually water getting in through failed leadwork, cracked flaunching or worn mortar. We find the cause before quoting for the fix.

Yes. Taking a stack down below the roof line and tiling over it is a common job, and it removes a maintenance problem for good. We check whether it is shared with next door first.

Capping keeps rain and birds out, but it needs to be vented to stop condensation. We fit caps that do both.

We clear out the guttering on any roof or roofline job we carry out. For gutter clearing on its own, ring us and we will tell you whether we can fit it in.

We do not recommend it. Capping traps rot behind the plastic, so we remove the old timber and fit new boards.

White, black, anthracite grey and woodgrain finishes are all common. We bring samples to the survey.

Ring us whatever the time. If water is coming in we will tell you what to do to limit the damage and get out to make it safe as soon as we safely can.

Many policies cover sudden storm damage but not wear and tear. We provide the photographs and the report your insurer will ask for.

Move belongings away from the leak, catch the water and turn off electrics in the affected area if water is near fittings. Do not go on the roof.

Usually the flashing kit around the frame or the tiles next to it, not the glass. We find the cause before quoting.

Most roof windows are permitted development, but conservation areas and listed buildings can need consent. We will flag it at the survey.

For most roofs, yes. It does not crack or wash out, and it ventilates the ridge. It is now required on most new roofs.

Usually. Sound ridge tiles are lifted, cleaned and refixed. Broken ones are replaced with the closest match.